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Glenn Gillespie grew up eating cachupa stew — the national dish of Cape Verde, an African island nation where Portuguese is spoken. It’s where his grandfather is from.
“We had a lot of Cape Verdean dishes,” says the Pennsylvania Institute of Culinary Arts graduate. “Those changed the way I looked at food.”
International flavors are at the forefront of Edgar’s in Akron, where Gillespie is the executive chef and owner. Caribbean and Mediterranean influences are prominent. Italian dishes are inspired by his time working at renowned restaurant Piatto, while Southern and Creole offerings are inspired by Gillespie’s visits to his brother in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Smoke and heat appear in many dishes — including the vegetarian pasta ($21.50). Gillespie roasts acorn, butternut and spaghetti squashes to make a sweet veloute sauce. He then smokes and grills peppers and asparagus, tossing them with linguini, crispy spinach, sauteed mushrooms, goat cheese, pine nuts and scallions to complete the plate.
“You want to have the smokiness from the grilled, smoked vegetables, so you have a hearty, rich, smoked flavor,” says the 2010 “Nightline” top chef national finalist, who has worked with Michael Symon.
My Favorite Local Bite
Breakfast at Tiffani’s Cafe & Catering’s three-tiered platter
“They have pancakes, hash browns on it, sausage, biscuits and gravy,” says Edgar’s executive chef and owner Glenn Gillespie. “Incredible.”
The lemon pepper salmon presents spice. The star is lemon pepper, made by grating, drying and chopping lemon — and grinding it with pepper. Along with Cajun seasoning, it coats Sixty South salmon before it’s grilled. The fish is served with a sweet potato risotto, made of roasted sweet potatoes, chicken stock, Parmesan and more, as well as Creole spinach — which features garlic, olive oil, mixed julienned peppers and sauteed spinach.
“It’s clean food that has layers of flavor, savory, citrus,” says Gillespie.
Located at J.E. Good Park Golf Course, Edgar’s got a reboot in two “Restaurant: Impossible” appearances on the Food Network, which aired in 2020 and 2021.
“I learned how to run a restaurant more efficiently, narrow down my menu,” he says.
The slimmer menu features dishes from the show — including shrimp quesadillas and smoked fried chicken — alongside bar-friendly and fine dining options. Community members and local skilled workers helped redesign the restaurant — painting the walls pearl white and the ceiling black, adding stylish seating, switching in globe lighting and installing a new wooden bar.
Edgar’s and Gillespie are celebrating 20 years next spring. He credits the community’s support. The international menu has helped bring in a diverse clientele who hunger for a cultural bite.
“We have one of the most diverse restaurants in Northeast Ohio because politicians come here, doctors, lawyers, neighborhood people,” Gillespie says. “Everybody’s welcome.”
At J.E. Good Park Golf Course, 530 Nome Ave., Akron, 330-869-3000, edgarsrestaurant.com
